"I've grown up. It's more mature clothes for more mature women, because that's what I am," Frida Giannini said after her show. She's only 38, and hardly middle-aged, but this season Giannini's designing seems to be hitting the kind of equilibrium Stella McCartney reached a couple of years back: the confidence to relax, and not try too hard to be super-duper fashion-y. Things began with a calm opening exit of cream, dove gray, and barely there top-to-toe color—a couple of fitted dresses, a slim patchworked ostrich and suede coat shown with matching opaque tights and shoes. With that, Giannini deleted the expectation that this was to be a frenetic seasonal Gucci trend-grab. It was more about consolidating her look: the pants she's always been good at tailoring, put together with coats and fur-patched jackets with a believably glamorous daywear attitude.