Donatella Versace's Fall collection took a very different route from the pastel-colored goddess drapery that looked so pitch-perfect and confident in last Spring's drop-dead glorious incarnation. This time, maybe in reaction to general fashion talk about discretion, minimalism, pragmatic daywear, and longer lengths, she switched to dealing with tailoring. In the house of Versace, that's a trickier proposition, and now that body-con feels like it's on the way out, she committed herself to a tough task.
Her solution? Slicing and dicing fabric in geometric, asymmetric planes; zippering the pieces together; and coming up with half-short, half-long skirt lengths. It had the feel of an experiment only half realized, because before we were very far into the show, Versace had switched to pants in biker mode, and then into the familiar house territory of short-and-tight dresses. Along the way, there were great jackets and even a camel coat. Nevertheless, those aren't really the kind of visuals to get the adrenaline pumping at Versace. Even in times when all the fashion chat is about calming down and pulling back, there's still plenty of room for designers whose natural instinct is to fly in the opposite direction.
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In the stylist Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, Anna Molinari, the house proprietor, has found a kindred spirit with a sense of humor and a clear idea of the point of it all. Just before the show went on, Cerf de Dudzeele declared, "J'adore it all! It's for the kind of girl a man wants to follow in the street." Well, job done, for those who are after that kind of result—and as Blumarine's ever climbing, recession-busting sales figures are proving, there are plenty of women all over the world who do want exactly that.
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I've yet to meet someone who doesn't adore MAC - either the whole brand, or specific products that simply can't be copied. If you are the type who hoards new beauty stuff in every color, perhaps you should mark the MAC + Rodarte collaboration on your calendar.
In fashion and beauty, you feel so wrong saying 'I can't wait until fall' when it's only mid-February, but that's just the way it goes. It was recently reported that we will get to enjoy MAC cosmetics in a whole new way because they are teaming up with fashion label Rodarte, of pretty frocks and frilly gear.
They will be creating a limited-edition line with inspiration pulled straight from Rodarte's runway looks - the Fall 2010 collection, to be exact. We are definitely in for a treat. Reportedly, we're going to see a lot of pale and nude-lipped combinations, and plenty of smokey eye builders. Who can resist a smokey eye?
MAC has a history with Rodarte, having teamed up backstage since 2006. It looks like they are building some brand-new looks for us to enjoy, and that's something we want to get into right away. As for the limited edition appeal, well, that's just another reason why we'll be filling up our virtual shopping carts come September.
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The wood-cabin set and video images of snow-covered peaks were all the clues you needed, but if you had any doubt you were in for an après-ski extravaganza at D&G, the first look settled it: Natasha Poly came striding out, all legs in a red-and-white snowflake sweater bodysuit complete with rhinestone-covered goggles pushed up on her forehead and furry mukluks on her feet.
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GUINNESS SHOW: One of Alexander McQueen’s closest friends, Daphne Guinness, will exhibit part of her wardrobe at the Fashion Institute of Technology in September 2011. About 80 to 100 pieces including outfits by the likes of McQueen, Balenciaga, Comme des Garçons, Dolce & Gabbana and Azzedine Alaïa will be in a show on her personal style, which will run at the school’s museum through January 2012. The socialite and Valerie Steele, director and chief curator of The Museum at FIT, will co-curate the show. Yale University Press will publish a book to accompany the exhibit. “She is so creative and inspirational in the way that someone like Tina Chow was,” said Steele. For the show, Steele plans to identify the components of that style, which range from Guinness’ interest in sleeves and ruffles around the neck to accessories like hats, veils and ribbons.
Memories of Green
Muse #21 Spring 2010
Shot by: Greg Kadel
Model: Eniko Mihalik
"It's normal clothes," she said backstage before her show. "Classics. Revising the things I did in the nineties." Behind her, models, hair done up in sixties beehives, were changing. Among them were Doutzen Kroes, Catherine McNeil, Lara Stone, and Miranda Kerr, young women whose relatively curvaceous beauty has generally exempted them from being cast as exemplars of female gorgeousness on runways such as Prada's for the past few years.
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